Now that I have spent several weeks in Paris, not having seen it for twenty years, it would be interesting to describe how much it has changed. I will start with its exterior features.

The outward appearance of Paris is still the same: crowds, bustle, noise, dirtiness, stench; but some aspects of the city have improved considerably. Thus, for example, the embankment of the Seine from the Louvre to the Hôtel de Ville and beyond has been expanded by the demolition of the houses near the river; it was raised and provided with a wonderful sidewalk lined with trees. Three bridges are built over the Seine on this side: des Saints Peres, d’Arcole, and Louis-Philippe. The magnificent Arc de Triomphe de l’Etoile at the end of the Champs-Elysees has been completed. The gigantic Obelisque de Louxor brought from Egypt rises on the Place Louis XV between the Tuileries Garden and the Champs-Elysées. Rue de Rivoli, running from the Tuileries Palace along the garden to the Avenue des Champs-Elysees, is lined with what looks like one magnificent building with arcades: several state offices are located here, for example, the naval ministry, but the largest part of the street is occupied by first-class hotels. The view of the Seine, through the garden, and of the square—is incomparable.— The Bourse, located on rue Vivienne on a spacious square, also has been finished. It is a wonderful, stately building on the outside, beautiful and well appointed inside. The ceilings and walls are decorated with great taste. The ceiling in the hall of the Commercial Court, as I have stated before, is especially beautiful.— The most important streets in Paris now have sidewalks—not very wide, but nevertheless pleasant for pedestrians. The boulevards are maintained in their former splendor. Excluding a great number of new, private buildings, which are wonderful and stately, everything is dirtied, soiled, smeared by uncleanliness of all kinds. In London, soot is the inevitable consequence of burning coal, and it is spread by the perpetual fog. In Paris, uncleanliness is voluntary—a diligent contribution of the great nation.