Skip to main content Accessibility help
×
Hostname: page-component-78c5997874-4rdpn Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2024-11-03T01:36:21.944Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

8 - Inventing in a World of Guilds: Silk Fabrics in Eighteenth-century Lyon

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  24 June 2009

Liliane Pérez
Affiliation:
Lecturer in the History of Technology Conservatoire national des Arts et Métiers in Paris
S. R. Epstein
Affiliation:
London School of Economics and Political Science
Maarten Prak
Affiliation:
Universiteit Utrecht, The Netherlands
Get access

Summary

This chapter examines the production of silk brocades in Lyon in the eighteenth century through the technical possibilities and skills that underpinned inventiveness, the social status of inventive artisans, and the policy of innovation that the powerful silk guild known as the Grande Fabrique developed in tune with the municipality. Thanks to Lesley E. Miller and Carlo Poni, we know about the practices and the context of artistic creation in Lyon, especially the part played by design. The success of the Lyon silk fabrics relied on design creativity and on the management of stocks of patterns owned by local firms. Their protection, application, and fraudulent circulation were the basis of the new Lyon fashions launched yearly across Europe. The utility of design was based upon technical ingenuity. Inventing a new fabric relied on a combination of new patterns as well as new devices and commercial projects, calculations, and plans. No refined patterns could have been realised without the multiplication of warp threads and of numerous tiny shuttles for weft threads, new devices for quickly changing patterns on looms, and new stitches giving the illusion of relief, shades, and half-tones in portraits. New flowered silks were at the heart of a web combining work on shapes, materials, processes, and projects.

Type
Chapter
Information
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2008

Access options

Get access to the full version of this content by using one of the access options below. (Log in options will check for institutional or personal access. Content may require purchase if you do not have access.)

Save book to Kindle

To save this book to your Kindle, first ensure [email protected] is added to your Approved Personal Document E-mail List under your Personal Document Settings on the Manage Your Content and Devices page of your Amazon account. Then enter the ‘name’ part of your Kindle email address below. Find out more about saving to your Kindle.

Note you can select to save to either the @free.kindle.com or @kindle.com variations. ‘@free.kindle.com’ emails are free but can only be saved to your device when it is connected to wi-fi. ‘@kindle.com’ emails can be delivered even when you are not connected to wi-fi, but note that service fees apply.

Find out more about the Kindle Personal Document Service.

Available formats
×

Save book to Dropbox

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Dropbox.

Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

Available formats
×