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7 - Travels, July–September 1860

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  02 June 2021

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Summary

Bizet left Rome for the last time on 27 July 1860 in order to fulfil his long-cherished plan to travel across Italy. He had earlier intended to spend three or four months on the road and then return to Rome until the end of the year, but he changed his mind before leaving. He now planned a longer trip on the road, returning directly to Paris. In the event the trip lasted only two months and he was back in Paris three months earlier than planned. The journal of this trip is much fuller than his previous journals, with abundant records of buildings and pictures, and revelations of his nighttime pursuits. It never mentions his own compositions, although we know from his letters that he was thinking about his symphony, and making sketches.

Other Villa inmates joined him at certain points on the journey, while Bizet's travelling companion at least as far as Venice was Ernest Guiraud, who remained a good friend and helped to propagate Bizet's music after the latter's death. At twenty-three, Guiraud was a year older than Bizet and they were clearly men of similar tastes.

Bizet's large wardrobe and a trunkful of books and manuscripts were sent back to Paris. The travellers took with them only as much as they could carry, including sufficient money for the journey and documents to negotiate border formalities at a time when the political map of Italy was rapidly changing.

Just before their departure Garibaldi completed his subjection of Sicily and was preparing to invade the mainland and attack the Kingdom of Naples.

Journal

Friday 27 July 1860 Rome, Palo, Cerveteri

Departure with Guiraud. Sweet but agonising night. I leave her at last. I drag myself to the railway station. I leave. From Rome to Palo. At Palo a swim on the beach. The weather worsened and became depressing. We try to lunch with the fishermen; impossible, it's too unpleasant. We have a few eggs for lunch at the locanda. I feel horribly sad all the time. We leave on foot for Cerveteri. I arrive with a temperature, I go to bed and sleep. Waking up was horrible, I am suffering dreadfully. A quiet evening makes me feel better. We find ourselves witnessing a quarrel between a trouble-maker and the landlord. The child is in despair.

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Bizet in Italy
Letters and Journals, 1857–1860
, pp. 173 - 220
Publisher: Boydell & Brewer
Print publication year: 2021

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